Baltic Cruise on the Eurodam

Hello, I am now back home after disembarking the Eurodam in Dover yesterday morning. I have to say again that I love Holland America, they are one the leading cruise lines .... service is excellent and the food ... well absolutely brilliant ..... can't wait to get  back on one of these great ships. Here is the final information on the ports.


St Petersburg, Russia

St. Petersburg Overview 
There's something eerie about coming to St. Petersburg. Probably Cold War remembrances, and all sorts of warnings from ship personnel about pickpockets and black marketeers - and the fact that you have to go past stern-faced, uniformed customs officials at the pier doesn't help.

Once in the city, you may find St. Petersburg a wonderful place ... or you may find your experience here one big hassle. The key museums and attractions are not air conditioned and rarely have special facilities for the disabled. There are few signs in English and understanding what you are seeing - whether it's a street sign, a shop name or a painting description - can be impossible. And the Hermitage is typically packed- you may have to do a lot of jostling to see the art highlights.

And yet the beautiful city Peter the Great founded in 1703 in what was then swampland, has today unbelievably sumptuous Tsarist-era palaces (efforts have been under way for years to fix the crumbling ones), onion-domed churches and the lovely Neva River. Peter was inspired by London, Paris and Vienna and carefully developed the city by plan, creating canals and passageways. Most of the design remains today.

St. Petersburg was capital of Imperial Russia from 1712 to 1914 and remains Russia's cultural capital - all the big names have been affiliated with St. Petersburg including Pushkin, Dostoyevsky, Tchaikovsky and Tolstoy. The city itself is like a living museum - you are likely to find yourself ooing and ahhing at the architecture from your bus - and art is a key attraction.

Language 
Russian, and don't expect everyone to know English (except of course for your well-versed tour guides, which will be by your side for the vast majority of the time).

Currency & Best Way to Get Money 
You are best off dealing here in dollars, or €Euro which many street vendors and most of the shops (including the gift shop at the pier) will take. Otherwise, use a credit card. But for those who want some Russian roubles (to buy a stamp to send a postcard), there are ATM's in the city centre.

Best Souvenir 
Nesting dolls (they come in all themes, from traditional to US football team designs) and lacquer boxes. You can also find good buys on amber jewellery.

Watch Out For
Don't drink the tap water; stick to bottled.

Where You're Docked 
Things are looking pretty good for cruise ships these days in St. Petersburg. The new terminals, which are more conveniently situated, are very user friendly. There is a small Tax Free shop in the terminal.

Getting Around 
Without a Visa, you unfortunately have to be on a shore excursion to get off the ship.

Don't Miss
The Hermitage is the world's second largest art museum (behind the Louvre) and easily St. Petersburg's most famous attraction. The four buildings that make up the museum include the opulent Winter palace, which was built by Peter the Greats daughter (Elizabeth) and has undergone major renovations that have left it sparkling. Walk up an imposing baroque marble staircase and marvel at all the gold leaf, and check out the several heavily decorated rooms including a throne room.

Your guide will tell you how the art collecting began with Catherine the Great (although what she collected could only be viewed by royal eyes and invited guests). Today's art collection is in chronological order. - Botticelli, Leonardo (DaVinci), Raffael, Michelangleo. Next you move on to the Spanish collection (Valazquez, Goya, El Greco to name a few).

The Hermitage's Rembrandt collection is the second biggest after Amsterdam, and among the paintings is The Danae, which may or may not actually be by Rembrandt, but has a place in history for being slashed and burned with acid in 1985 by a madman. It took 12 years to restore the work.

Frustratingly crowded during my visit , was the museum's famous Impressionist collection, put together by collectors in Moscow but then declared bourgeois by Stalin - the collection sat in warehouses until the end of World War II, when it was divided up between the Hermitage and Museum of Modern Art in Moscow.

There are Renoirs, Van Goghs, Cezannes and Gauguins in room after room, followed by a lot of Matisse and some Picasso too. Don't miss the fabulous gift shop, which is a great place to buy quality souvenirs. A novel idea being tested is a radio system so you can put on headphones and actually hear your guide

St. Isaac's Cathedral  the biggest in St. Petersburg, is an immense, awesome spectacle. It's not all that old - it was completed in the mid 19th century - but it's replete inside and out with gorgeous mosaic murals, granite pillars and marble floors. Its huge gold dome can be seen for miles around.

Russian Museum  is housed in the former Mikhailovsky Palace and is one of two top places in all of Russia to showcase the culture of the country, from 12th-century icons to the avaunt-garde. Don't miss the adjacent Mikhailovsky Gardens - a lovely spot to rest.

Peter & Paul Fortress is the original part of St. Petersburg. Built in 1703, it was initially planned as a defence against Sweden, but the Russians won that war before the fortress was completed, so it was used, until 1917, as a political prison instead. Many of the czars and other Russian royalty are buried here; other highlights include the Baroque-style Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul and the Trubetskoy Bastion.

Magnificent palaces. The primary palaces are Catherine's Palace in Pushkin and Peter the Great's Peterhof - and you can do them in a day (but just barely). Peterhof lies on the Baltic Sea, a magnificent landmark of Russian artistic culture of the 18th and 19th centuries, founded in the very beginning of the 18th century by Emperor Peter the Great.

Pushkin  neighbours the Palace of Pavlovsk which was built for Russian Tsar Paul I, the only son of Catherine the Great; both were built in the mid- to late-18th century, have been beautifully restored, and are situated among gorgeous parks and gardens.

Been There, Done That
Nevsky Prospekt is life in Russia on display, with street vendors and exclusive Western boutiques (ranging from Hugo Boss to Versace), cathedrals and parks, cafés and canals. One fun diversion is a boat ride along the canals; Boats leave from Anichkov Bridge (the Fontanka River) just off Nevsky Prospekt afternoons at 2 pm. and 3 pm. Buy your ticket on the spot.

Shopping. Pick up quality souvenirs at the Hermitage or cheap trinkets including stack dolls and other crafts items and Communist-era pins from the street vendors outside or at whatever market you are taken too (be aware some products may be fakes). Outside the Hermitage one T-shirt vendor had a shirt with the Communist Party symbol of a hammer and sickle, that announced, "The Party's Over" in case anyone didn't know that.

Helsinki, Finland

Helsinki Overview 
What really struck me on my first visit back in the late 1980's and even more strongly on subsequent trips, is that Helsinki is a city with a strange melange of identities. Maybe it's the Russian influence or maybe it's the strong appreciation of contemporary design - the city is home to Marimekko, world-renowned for its boldly patterned textiles; Kalevala, known for distinctive bronze and silver jewellery; and Iittala, known for glassware. Or it could be the dark, cold and snowy winters that last half the year (fortunately, this is not the season for cruising), making folks here just a little bit wacky. This is, after all, the place where one annual festival features the tossing of Finnish-made Nokia cell phones and another popular mainstay is a wife-carrying competition.

Finland is cut off from Nordic neighbours like Sweden and Norway because of its near-inexplicable language. (It originated as an oral language, rather than a written one, so it's very difficult to follow.) The country itself, which was juggled back and forth over the centuries between Sweden and Russia, is also one of Europe's newest; independence from Russia was achieved in 1917 following the Bolshevik Revolution.

The historic Helsinki (it was founded in 1550 by Swedish King Gustavus Vasa) offers monuments such as the Lutheran Cathedral (Lutheran is the "state" religion), the onion-domed Uspenski Cathedral (it's Orthodox) and the neoclassical buildings in and around Senate Square. The sleek Helsinki can be found at Kiasma, the avant-garde Museum of Contemporary Art, and at the Design Museum. You can really feel the different identities on a trip around Helsinki. Helsinki's other major plus is that it's bounded on three sides by the Baltic Sea. In summer Helsinki's waterfront is the liveliest place in Finland - whether you're soaking up the sun at a cafe, riding the ferry to the island housing the Suomenlinna Sea Fortress, or taking a boat tour of surrounding waterways.

Language 
In Helsinki, most people speak both Finnish and Swedish (Finland officially recognizes Finnish and Swedish as national languages). English is widely spoken and understood.

Currency & Best Way to Get Money 
The currency is €Euro. Get money from ATM's,(OTTO) which are plentiful in the main shopping areas.

Best Souvenir
Anything that's reindeer-related (from reindeer skins to etched crystal to magnets). And anything from Marimekko .

Where You're Docked 
Western Dock which is about a 15-minute taxi or shuttle ride to the heart of Helsinki.

Hanging Around 
There isn't much to see or do at the pier there is a small souvenir shop.

Getting Around 
Cruise ships typically offer a shuttle (most charge: Eurodam $10) between the ship and city centre, using the same pick up as drop off. Taxis also line up at the cruise ship terminal; a cab to Market Square or the Swedish Theatre will run about €10 The city is very walk-able, and once down-town, you'll also find a good trolley system At the Pier you can catch hop-on, hop-off, double-decker tourist buses that take you to the major sights (for about €15).
Once in the city you can take the Tram T3, this does a circular tour of some of the major sights in the city and takes around an hour. Public transport costs €2.75.

Don't Miss
Boat tour options abound and range from hour-long samplers of Helsinki's waterways to full-day outings. All depart from Market Square and offer commentary. Some offer lunch.

The city's waterfront is not only the take-off point for boats and ferries, but is also home to both indoor and outdoor markets. At Market Square, locals and tourists alike shop for flowers, fresh fruits and fish (herring is a local delicacy). There are cosy cafés that are terrific places for a quick coffee - and it's a great place for people-watching.

Senate Square's prime attraction is the historic Lutheran Cathedral . Another religious place worth visiting, also from the 1800's, is the onion-domed Russian Orthodox Uspenski Cathedral (Kanavakatul 1, Monday - Saturday from 9:30 am. - 4 pm.; Sunday noon - 3 pm.). The Temppeliaukio Church (Lutherinkatu 3, Monday - Friday from 10 am. - 8 pm., Saturday from 10 am. - 6 pm. and Sunday from 12:45 - 1:45 pm. and 3:15 - 5:45 pm.), is dubbed the Rock Church because it has been carved out of solid rock.(May be closed for services, has been under renovation over the last few months, and may not be fully open).

Museum-goers who want to know more about Finland's history should check out the National Museum of Finland (Mannerheimintie 34, Tuesday - Wednesday from 11 am. - 8 pm. and Thursday - Sunday from 11 am. - 6 pm.). Attracting quite a bit of notoriety is Helsinki's relatively new Museum of Contemporary Art, Kiasma (Finnish National Gallery, Mannerheiminaukio 2, open Tuesday - Saturday from 9 am. - 5 pm., Sunday from 10 am. - 8:30 pm.). To learn about Finnish modern design, check out the Design Museum (Korkeavuorenkatu 23, daily 11 am. - 6 pm.). Music lovers will want to visit Sibelius Park on Mechelininkatu, home to an unusual monument featuring hundreds of steel pipes, that pays homage to the most famous Finnish composer, Jean Sibelius (1865 - 1957).

A 15-minute ferry ride away, Suomenlinna Sea Fortress is a must-do. This UNESCO monument, dating back to 1748, is set on a series of interconnected islands. Within the walls are numerous historic buildings and museums. Start at the Visitors Centre (Inventaariokamari) and work your way through museums such as: Suomenlinna Museum (11 am. - 4 pm., Tuesday - Sunday) which displays military artefacts; the Suomenlinna Doll and Toy Museum (11 am. - 4 pm., Tuesday - Sunday) and the Coastal Artillery Museum (11 am. - 4 pm., Tuesday - Sunday), among others. The fortress is also a residential community - and there are numerous cafés and restaurants as well as a brew pub.

I usually don't tell people to see train stations, but don't miss the one in Helsinki. It's one of my favourite buildings in town, with an unusual, dark monumental design with giant Egyptian figures out front that have inspired set designers - including those who created Gotham for the first "Batman" movie. (So I am told !!!! ) Designed by the German architect Engel.

Helsinki, for lovers of art and artisan crafts, is a fabulous shopping destination. The newly designated "design district" offers numerous boutiques showcasing work from young Finnish designers - head to Uudenmaankatu. The Esplanade, in the heart of the city, is Helsinki's version of Paris' Champs d' Elysee (it's a great place to pick up items from Marimekko and Iittala; both have stores here). If there's a live concert (often at lunchtime there are free performances of dance and music), sit yourself down in the grassy park or at one of the side-walk cafés. Don't miss Stockmann, the city's most elegant department store. Beyond the usual fare it's got a nice array of Finnish made housewares (candlesticks and the like) and craft items from around the country, including Lapland (the northernmost part of the country and, the home of Santa Claus). It's also got a huge book store with a good selection of works in English.

Been There, Done That 
Porvoo, Finland's second oldest town, is an hour's drive from Helsinki. With its preserved wood houses, Porvoo offers more of a sense of historic life in Finland than does Helsinki (many of whose wooden structures burned down in the 19th century). It's also a fun place to poke around in side streets, shop at one-of-a-kind boutiques and lunch in restaurants that serve traditional Finnish cuisine.

Lunching 
For a casual sandwich on the go, head for the indoor hall at Market Square. A coffee and a Finnish Doughnut (Munnki) filled with jam, delicious, or maybe try a Karelian savoury all available at the stalls.
Stockholm, Sweden

Stockholm Overview 
Stockholm was founded in the 13th century - arguably one of the most beautiful capital cities in the world. Take one look and you'll understand why it's sometimes called "Venice of the North."

The city is made up of 14 islands connected by some 50 bridges on Lake Malaren, which flows into the Baltic Sea and passes an archipelago with some 24,000 islands and islets (and a lot of summer homes and cottages).

A very lively, cosmopolitan place with both modern Scandinavian architecture (including lots of brass and steel) and fairytale towers, a captivating Old Town (Gamla Stan) and lots of green space (one-third of the city's total land area is parks), this is a lively city. Nature is close at hand - you can even fish from some down town waterways.

Sweden is one of the richest countries, and its culture is rich as well with fine museums and historical attractions, not to mention an excellent restaurant scene. Such greats as Greta Garbo, Ingrid Bergman got their start at the Royal Theatre. And at City Hall, Nobel Prizes are awarded each December (all except the Peace Prize, which is given out in Oslo); the prizes are named for inventor Alfred Nobel, who was born there.

The government is ruled by a constitutional monarchy (there is a popular Royal Family), it is highly socialized and the taxes here are among the highest anywhere (if you meet up with locals they are likely to complain).

This is the largest of the Baltic port cities with a population of more than 1.65 million.

Language 
Swedish, but just about everyone speaks English fluently as well.

Currency & Best Way to Get Money 
Swedish Krona. There are approximately 6.45SK per U$ and 10.30SK per GBP£ - (as at 4/7), ATM's are the best way to get cash and are readily available down town. Dollars and Euros are accepted at some shops.

Best Souvenir
Swedish crystal (both traditional and contemporary). While Sweden's Orrefors and Kosta Boda are internationally known, there is also a plethora of lesser-known contemporary designers.
Where You're Docked 
Nynashamn. This is a tender port, once at the pier it takes approx 1 hour to Stockholm.

Getting Around 
Once in the city, you can walk or take a ferry to most sights (including those on Djurgarden). Taxis are also readily available there. Although the subway and bus systems are great. Open Top bus tours are available all around the centre.
Watch Out For
Lots of cobbled streets that can be hard on your feet; wear comfortable shoes.

Don't Miss
Gamla Stan: The Old Town. Yes, it's touristy, but personally I could spend all day here. Largely pedestrian-only, this is the original city, occupying an island that's an easy stroll (via bridge) from down town. It's surrounded by medieval-era walls and anchored by the palace of Kungliga Slottet. This 18th-century royal palace, which boasts 680 rooms (some occupied by the Royal Family), is a good first stop - try to time your visit around the Changing of the Guard ceremonies that are held daily at noon. The palace's state apartments are well worth visiting. Another historic highlight in Gamla Stan is the city's 15th-century Gothic cathedral (Storkyrkan), where all Royal Family coronations, baptisms and weddings are held. Other interesting sites include Stortorget, a spacious and gracious plaza that, hard to believe, one time was the spot for public hangings, as well as the location for the infamous "Bloodbath of 1520," that triggered a revolt and eventually the founding of the sovereign state of Sweden.

For a touch of more modern history, the Nobel Museum (Stockholm Stock Exchange, Stortorget, open daily in summer from 10 am. - 6 pm.) honours a worldwide cadre of super achievers in the areas of physics, chemistry, medicine, literature, peace and economics.

The "can't miss this" museum in Stockholm is the incredible Vasa Museum (on the island of Djurgarden, open every day from 10 am. - 5 pm.). The museum was literally and figuratively built around the Vasa, a 17th-century warship that sank on its maiden voyage in 1628. The ship was salvaged in 1961 almost completely intact (the Baltic's brackish waters kept parasites at bay). Beyond the ship itself, the museum features a range of other maritime exhibits. Other museums include the Moderna Museet (Skeppsholmen, open daily from 11 am. - 6 pm.) for its exhibition of modern art. The collection features works by Dali, Kandinsky and Picasso. The National Museum (Sodra Blasieholmshamnen, closed Mondays, open other days from 11 am.) features works not only from Swedish artists, but also showcases art from other countries.
The city's underground is worth exploring for art. About 90 of the stations have art displayed, and you can pick up a guide at subway stations or tourist offices that boasts of the "world's longest art exhibition." (The blue line's stations are the most impressive).

Been There, Done That 
Skansen (on Djurgarden, open daily 10 am. - 10 pm.) is known as "Old Sweden" in a nutshell. It's an open-air museum that offers about 150 buildings from across Sweden, most from the 18th and 19th centuries, that have been reassembled in a park-like setting. Exhibits range from blacksmiths and glass blowers to a windmill and a completely reassembled town. Folk dancers and musicians perform.

For a side walk café scene, head toward the plaza of Jarntorgsgatan: Cafe Nova (open all day) offers light fare. For gourmet dining - think traditional Swedish with seasonal ingredients - check out Jarnet Matsal & Bar (Osterlanggatan 34, from 11:30 am. - 3 pm. weekdays).

Shopping 
Shopping in Gamla Stan is fabulous. The main commercial street is Vasterlanggatan, where you'll find a lot of tourist fare and funky boutiques. But the most interesting shops - for travellers looking for beautifully made, original crafts ranging from clothing to ceramics - tend to be located along Osterlanggatan. Down town, the shopping scene is primarily along Drottninggatan, which is pedestrian-only in many places. Highlights: If you're looking for Swedish-designed products, check out Svenskt Hantverk (Kungsgatan 55) and the department store NK (Hamngatan 18 - 20); both have fabulous selections of exquisite handicrafts and crystal. 


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