California - Day 9 - San Francisco

Wednesday 22^nd September

San Francisco, California

History – Even by the standards of the New World, San Francisco remained terra incognita a surprisingly long time. A few early explorers, including Portuguese – born Joao Cabrilho and England’s Sir Francis Drake, sailed up and down the length of the California coast in the 16^th century, but all of them sailed past the Golden Gate without noticing the bay that lay beyond it. It was not until 1769 that the first non-natives laid eyes on what is now San Francisco; thereafter the area was colonized swiftly by the Spanish, who established missions and presidios (forts). In 1821, when Mexico declared independence from Spain, it became Mexican territory.

The Growing City – The first significant boost to growth occurred in 1848, when gold was discovered at Sutter’s Mill in the Sierra Nevada foothills near Sacramento. Hundreds of thousands of prospectors were attracted to California from all over the world, leading to the Gold Rush of 1849 (the prospectors of this time were known as ’49ers). This coincided with the United States’ takeover of the West Coast and, by 1869, San Francisco had grown into an international city renowned both for its wild “Barbary Coast,” stretching west from the waterfront, and for the fortunes that were made speculating on the newfound riches of the American frontier.

Earthquake and Recovery – As the population increased, the city grew westward to fill the narrow peninsula: cable cars were invented to conquer the steep hills, and blocks of ornate Victorian Houses were built. The earthquake and fire of 1906 destroyed most of the city but not its spirit, and reconstruction was soon underway. Throughout all of this, San Francisco retained its unique character and seemingly limitless energy.

Early San Francisco – The first inhabitants of the area around San Francisco Bay were American Indians, grouped into two main tribes, the Coast Miwok in the north and the Ohlone in the south. By the mid-1500s, European ships were exploring the California coast, but no contact was made with the Indians until Sir Francis Drake anchored off Point Reyes and claimed it for Queen Elizabeth I. The bay remained undiscovered until 1769, and in 1776 Spain established a small presidio and a mission, named in honour of the founder of the Franciscan order, San Francisco de Asis.

Where to see Early San Francisco – Early American Indian tools are at the California Academy of Sciences, while Mission Dolores and Oakland Museum have Mission-era artefacts.

The Gold Rush – Having broken away from Spain in 1821, Mexico opened California to foreign trade for the first time. Whaling vessels and traders anchored in San Francisco Bay, and a small village began to grow. In 1884, with the discovery of gold in the Sierra Nevada foothills and the US annexation of California, everything changed. In two years, 100,000 prospectors passed through the Golden Gate, turning San Francisco into a wild frontier city.

Where to see Gold Rush San Francisco – Little remains of the Gold Rush city, but you can get a feel for this era at the Wells Fargo History Museum, the Bank of California’s Museum of Money in the American West, or the Oakland Museum.

The Victorian Years – The city’s real boom years occurred during the second half of the 19^th century, when some San Franciscans made huge fortunes from the silver mines of Nevada’s Comstock Lode, and from the transcontinental railroad, completed in 1869. Saloons and brothels abounded along the waterfront in the legendary Barbary Coast district, while the wealthy built palaces at the top of Nob Hill. As the city expanded, its streets were lined by ornate Victorian Houses, and by the turn of the century, the population topped 300,000, making it the largest city west of Chicago.

Where to see the Victorian City – Well-preserved Victorian buildings can be seen all over San Francisco, but only Haas-Lilenthal House and Octagon House are open to the public on a regular basis. Jackson Square Historical District is the best place see what remains of the Barbary Coast.

The 1906 Earthquake and Fire – The massive earthquake that hit San Francisco just after 5am on April 18^th, 1906 caused one of the worst disasters in US History. The tremor, many times more powerful than any other to hit the city before or since, instantly collapsed hundreds of buildings, and subsequent fires engulfed the city centre. More than 6 sq miles (15 sq km) were reduced to rubble, and estimated death tolls range from an official 700 to a more credible 3,000, while as many as 250,000 people were made homeless. Travelling at 7,000 mph (11,265km), the earthquake overwhelmed the city centre. Flames erupted from burst gas mains and in 3 days, destroyed 28,000 buildings: prime city property valued at $400 million. Since most property owners were insured against damage by fire, the city was able to rebuild quickly, and by the end of the decade business had returned to normal.

Where to see the 1906 Earthquake – Artifacts and exhibits pertaining to the 1906 disaster are found all over the city. Information on the quake can be viewed in the foyer of the Sheraton Palace Hotel.

The Golden Age – Neither World War I in Europe nor the beginning of Prohibition in the US could dampen the city’s renewed energy after 1906. The 1920s saw the creation of major museums, theatres and other civic buildings. Even the Great Depression was not as painful as it was elsewhere in the US – many of the city’s monuments, including Coit Tower and both bay bridges, were built during these years. World War II brought industrial investment in the form of shipyards at Richmond and Sausalito. Fort Mason was the main supply base for the Pacific, and shipped out more than 1.5 million soldiers. To celebrate the city’s revival after 1906 and to mark the completion of the Panama Canal, San Francisco hosted the magical Exposition, which attracted 20 million visitors over 10 months.

Where to see the Golden Years –The only survivor of the 1915 Exposition is the landmark Palace of Fine Arts. The Old US Mint and the History Room of the Main Library both have extensive displays of objects from this era.

Post War San Francisco – Since World War II, San Francisco has seen both good times and bad. Site of the founding of the United Nations in 1945, the city was home to the Beats of the 1950s and the scene of “Love-ins” and “Be-ins” in the Flower Power of the 1960s. At the same time, the Bay Area was the scene of many antiwar and civil rights demonstrations. One of the wealthiest parts of the US, the area was hit hard by AIDS, homelessness and a devastating earthquake in 1989.

San Francisco’s Cable Cars – The Cable Car system was launched in 1873, with its inventor Andrew Hallidie riding in the first car. He was inspired to tackle the problem of transporting people up the city’s steep slopes after seeing a horrible accident: a horse drawn tram slipped down a hill, dragging the horses with it. His system was a success, and by 1889 cars were running on eight lines. Before the 1906 earthquake, more than 600 cars were in use: With the advent of the internal combustion engine, cable cars became obsolete, and in 1947 attempts were made to replace them with buses. After a public outcry the present three lines, using 17 miles (25km) of track, were retained.

Travelling by Cable Car – San Francisco’s cable cars are world famous and every visitor will want to ride one at least once. The cable car service runs from 6.30am to 12.30am daily. There is a flat fare of $5 for each journey. Passports: are perfect for visitors to the city, and allow unlimited riding on streetcars, buses, and cable cars. One Day $13 – Available in Kiosk in Hotel lobby.

Using the Cable Car – Cable Cars run along three routes. The Powell-Hyde line is the most popular. Starting at the Powell and Market turntable it skirts Union Square and climbs Nob Hill providing good views of Chinatown. It continues past the Cable Car Barn crosses Lombard Street then descends Hyde Street to the turntable near Aquatic Park. The Powell-Mason line also begins at Powell and Market streets and follows the same route from the Cable Car Barn. From there, it passes by North Beach and ends at Bay Street. Sit facing east on the Powell lines and you will see the best sights as you travel about.The California line runs from the base of Market Street along California Street. It passes through part of the Financial District and Chinatown. At Nob Hill the Powell lines cross the California line, so passengers can transfer between lines, but they have to pay again if they have a one way ticket. The California line then continues over Nob Hill, ending at Van Ness Avenue. For each of the three lines, the return trip follows the outward route, so riders are able to catch views from the other side of the car. Commuters like to use cable cars too, so avoid travelling during rush hours if possible. Whatever time you travel though, you are much more likely to get a seat if you board the cable car at the end of the line you have chosen.

Bay Trips –Bay sightseeing cruises from Fisherman’s Wharf are operated by Blue and Gold Fleet. The approx cost of a 1 hour cruise $25.

Buses – From the Hotel, take the number 47 to Fisherman's Wharf (destination) and walk to Pier 33 for Alactraz or Pier 41 for Harbour Cruise (Blue and Gold Fleet). Fare $2 Adult and .75c Senior, or buy a day pass.

The Journey

We are direct to San Francisco arriving at Pier 39 at approx 11.30, free time for lunch before departing for city tour with local guide Eadie, (keep some small denomination notes handy for a gratuity, suggest around $2 per person), taking in all the major sights of the city with stops at Golden Gate Bridge, and Twin Peaks, the tour shall end at the Holiday Inn, at approx 16.15. The hotel has a restaurant which is open for Breakfast and Dinner, there is also a bar, which has a Happy Hour daily. A small kiosk can be found in the lobby selling bus passes and postcards, stamps etc. as well as Souvenirs of San Francisco. Outside the hotel to the right is a Starbucks, inside the Wells Fargo Bank.